Thursday, 24 January 2013

Living the High Life: Wining and Wading at 3000m Altitude



On a recent adventure to Colombia, our travel bible, the Lonely Planet, made a brief understated reference to the small city of Sogamoso, situated in the state of Boyacá, in the Valley of the Sun. Just under three hours from Villa De Leyva, our first stop, we decided to beat our way off to the Gringo Trail and enjoy the delights of the highest lake in Colombia, Lago de Tota and some local wine production at Punta Larga, the ‘highest’ vineyard in the world. If considering something a little bit different in 2013, Colombia far exceeded expectations and Sogamoso was a gem. 


After Lake Titicaca in Bolivia/Peru and at a lofty 3015m, Lago de Tota is the second highest navigable lake in South America. The freshwater beach of Playa Blanca charms you into believing you are lying on the shores of the Maldives or Mauritius with its white sands, watersports, jet skis and tempting oceanic water. Of course, we were frozen back to reality when we waded into the roughly 8°C water and very swiftly back out. Whilst it is a tourist hot spot for Colombians, who bravely endure the icy waves to enjoy a swim, it remains largely unexplored by international tourists. Maybe the less than desirable swimming conditions are a deterrent but it is relaxing and hot, with a cool refreshing breeze and at that altitude you are basically next-door to the sun so tanning conditions are ideal. 



Punta Larga is another highlight of Sogamoso. As soon as we arrived at vineyard we were introduced to the chief wine-maker/owner who is Colombian-born and German-bred and was delighted to host international tourists. He explained his operations and how he aimed to whisk European Viticulture traditions with Southern American flavours into his wine making mix. Imported Pinot Grigio and Riesling grape varieties among a few that came from the French Beaujolais region are harvested on site, with additional varieties purchased from growers in the surrounding villages who provide the Colombian twist and support local economies. 


 Allegedly this tropical wine production is at the highest altitude in the world and you are certainly convinced of this due to the panoramic views of valleys offered in every direction.  Numerous sources, however, dispute this fact quoting that there are higher production points in regions of Argentina but the owner blew these off as ‘fake’ and argued that their rivals were not a true vineyard – they only produced the wine and did not cultivate and harvest the grapes at the high altitudes. Wining at 3000m in such exquisite sunny surroundings was a pleasure! The wine unfortunately is not yet at a stage where it can compete with Chilean competitors or with their dear friends in Argentina but hopefully in the next few years the Euro-Colombia fusion can find its balance so the wine will be well-matched to the experience.



During our stay in Sogamoso the charming Finca san Pedro was the chosen place to rest our heads – family-run, authentic and recommended. It is a shame time did not grant us the pleasure of staying more than one evening as numerous other unique activities are offered in the area including hikes to Salto de Candelas Waterfall (second highest in Colombia), Páramo de Oceta and Siscunsi Páramo – which are practically unknown to the traditional tourist, horse riding, fishing or even a game of tejo which is Colombia’s somewhat unconventional national sport. 









 
 Well worth a spot on the 2013 bucket list!










3 comments:

  1. VERY INTERESTING

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  2. I consider this altitude-training as blood-doping and refuse to play such an artificially-enhanced squash player. LoL Loob

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  3. Interesting blog! I'm just waiting for the next publication!

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